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Kayla Brianne is currently attempting to agreeableness a attending from “God’s Menu,” the ablaze summer absolution from one of her admired K-pop groups, Stray Kids. Specifically, it’s ballerina Hyunjin’s red and atramentous half-sleeveless top, which she is in the action of bed-making calm from scratch. “It’s demography me a little bit best than I would like,” the 19-year-old academy apprentice from North Carolina tells Teen Vogue. She holds the bolt up in advanced of her screen. It’s affianced in places and half-stitched. “I’ve never advised annihilation before.” But her absorption in K-pop has challenged Kayla to footfall out of her abundance area and try new things. Placing the -to-be apparel on her lap, she coyly smiles and says, “I’m still alive on it.” 

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Perhaps you ability accept apparent Kayla’s work-in-progress on TikTok, area she consistently posts her OOTD and about reimagines K-pop ‘fits with items from her own wardrobe. Back creating her annual in the bounce of 2019, Kayla has accumulated over 486,000 followers. Some of her best accustomed videos are of her piecing calm looks aggressive by K-pop artists. It’s article she does to appearance admirers that “you don’t accept to accept the exact aforementioned affair to be able to accept that style.” 

K-pop stars are accustomed for donning artisan garms about exclusively, but best admirers don’t usually accept the aforementioned admission to high-end brands. Kayla recreated Hyunjin’s atramentous and blooming Balenciaga ensemble from 2019’s “Miroh” on a academy budget, administration her admired billowing atramentous bodice with neon blooming lightning over a ablaze blooming bodice and finishing it off with atramentous burden pants and beefy atramentous boots. It’s not designer. It’s deconstructed and adapted in Kayla’s own image. “Everybody is consistently aggravating to acquisition themselves,” she says. “And appearance is a way for me to acquisition myself and acquisition out added about me and what I like and who I am as a person.” 

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K-pop aboriginal bent Kayla’s eye during her chief year of aerial academy in 2017. She says her appearance had consistently been “edgy,” accepting gone through the august emo kid appearance her apprentice year, but the idol industry’s arresting beheld concepts pulled her in and broadened her sartorial interests. She started acquaintance online shops to abbey her aggressive looks and it didn’t booty continued for harnesses, metal chains, and loud prints to become apparel staples. 

Though those will acceptable abide accessories in her wardrobe, Kayla says she’s currently into beastly print. Cow book adorns her bedchamber walls and has infiltrated her closet. She’s already attractive for agency to agreement with bobcat patterns — acknowledgment to her Stray Kids bent Han, who rocked a lot of bobcat print while announcement the absolution of “Back Door” aback in September. 

While every K-pop abstraction creates its own beheld world, there’s a accustomed aggressiveness that permeates. Pick any artisan and affairs are you’ll see harnesses, crop tops, bejeweled blouses, pleats, and ablaze apparel in at atomic a scattering of their videos. Aggregate is expertly accommodating and advised to accomplish best impact. “From an American perspective, it’s eye-catching,” says Kayla. “It’s not what I’ve apparent bodies abrasion actuality [in North Carolina]… It’s fabricated me try new things, and aback I abrasion those things out and I get adulation on them it makes me feel alike better. Because it’s additional my aplomb so much, I appetite to be able to do the aforementioned for added people, abnormally aback it comes to award cheaper agency [to agreeableness looks.] Not anybody can allow how big-ticket some K-pop appearance is. I apperceive lots of bodies appetite to accept that affectionate of appearance but aren’t able to.” 

It’s a attack K-pop admirers apperceive well. 24-year-old Elora, a clear artisan from San Francisco and allotment of awning ball group K-Pop-Up, looks to NCT’s Johnny for DIY appearance inspiration. “The way he thinks about appearance is agnate to me,” she says. “He dresses to the affair of area he’s going. He’s absolute detail-oriented. Accessories are so important, and he knows it. Bond patterns, aggravating altered things, [and] demography things that are simple and authoritative it memorable.” 

Like Kayla, Elora was fatigued to K-pop’s aerial concepts and able aesthetics. Afterwards accepting into EXO during the “Wolf” era aback in 2013 aback she was aloof a teenager, she began to absorb added streetwear and arrangement into her apparel (and those iconic flat-billed hats). 

In the apple of K-pop, she says, “any blush can go together.” This fabricated her added adequate to mix and bout hues, patterns, and textures on her own. “I absolutely like the witchy aesthetic,” she says, address the capacity of the all-black ensemble she’s cutting for our call. There are basic on the neckline, billowy sleeves, and a covering belt with chrome hardware. “You can breach up a monochromatic attending with textures,” Elora explains. “That’s article I abstruse through K-pop. That’s how you accomplish a black-and-white abstraction absolutely pop.” 

Elora’s appearance manifests in added ways, too. Throughout quarantine, she’s taken to replicating her admired of Johnny’s looks — like his W Korea spread — and staging her own photoshoots, article she acclimated to do with her friends. She angle it as a way to accurate herself and her abutment for her favs. “You apperceive how aback idols appear out with article lots of bodies accurate their action through altered mediums, like fan art or covers? For me, I charge to carbon that outfit,” she says. “I feel absolute assured application myself as a medium. It’s fun to become the concept. I’m not absolute acceptable at cogent myself with words, they get ashore in my head, but the one way I can accurate myself is through visuals.”

But recreating doesn’t beggarly creating a 1:1 archetype for Elora. She feels it’s important to arm-twist the spirit of Johnny’s “simple but not” appearance in her accustomed looks afterwards necessarily artful his looks to a tee. “I started accomplishing that in aerial school,” she says. “There’s this accouterments I did aggressive by [EXO member] Suho area he wore a ablaze dejected sweater and I did article agnate and added accessories that I anticipation would match.” Elora completed the ‘fit with bunny earrings, a subtle-for-locals nod to EXO’s leader. “My accessories advertence the idol. Suho is about alleged a bunny, so I wore a sweater and bunny earrings. That was aloof article I knew.” 

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A accustomed activity would be accustomed your admired member’s photocard in the aback of your phone. It’s an accent alone you and added K-pop stans would be able to admit and apperceive the acceptation of. Carolina Malis, a 30-year-old appearance and adorableness agreeable architect from Brooklyn, New York, calls this “the new merch.” She afresh purchased a Fear of God bodice from a sample sale. Fear of God is a basic in hypebeasts’ closets but this simple tee agitated a added acceptation for Carolina. “It’s the shirt that [BTS member] Suga wears all of the time,” she says. “I would never accept bought it if it wasn’t article he wore.” 

Wearing the Jerry Lorenzo conception in public, she’s acutely acquainted of the actuality that if you know, you know. “It’s so awe-inspiring that some bodies are aloof activity to see a shirt and others will see Suga’s shirt,” she adds. “It connects you with added fans. That’s aback the appearance annual turns into merch. It’s not about the appearance of it, it’s about what it means.” 

Brands aside, Carolina says K-pop helped her analyze her style. It started with a atypical binder on her phone, a abode for her to save her admired promotional images and fan armpit photos of idols. She calm them, she says, aloof so she “could beam at them and be amazed.” But she bound outgrew aloof one binder and created accession for images that anon aggressive her appearance and adorableness choices. Then, a arrangement — or really, a appearance — emerged amidst the dozens of airport looks. “One day, I saw it and I accomplished I had a style. It was absolute accessible to see what I admired by attractive through that folder. I started acumen what I capital to wear. That’s aback my own appearance came out.” 

That style, she says, is a mix of normcore basics and bizarre aeon detailing. “I adulation to mix the feminine and the masculine,” she says. “I adulation absolutely beefy shoes with a dress. I feel like I apparent that through K-pop.” For Carolina, BTS affiliate V is who best exemplifies this dichotomy. “While I won’t abrasion the aforementioned things that he wears, [his style] speaks to me in agreement of how he wears clothes and how he’s bond [pieces],” she says. “I chase for his photos a lot. If BTS is at the airport, I appetite to see what he’s wearing.” 

For fans, there’s a big aberration amid afflatus and imitation. “It would be accessible to anticipate that K-pop admirers are aloof copying,” says 26-year-old Meaghan, from Los Angeles. “Or that they’re alone cutting things because their admired idols do. I don’t anticipate that’s about the case. A lot of the times I accept my own faculty of who I am and what I like and how I like to look, and this idol matches that and has that aforementioned artful faculty — and now I’m seeing a accomplished new apple of artful possibilities through them.” 

During quarantine, the contempo law academy alum splurged on a covering from Korean cast MASSNOUN, the aforementioned anorak BTS affiliate Jungkook has been photographed in on assorted occasions. “The day that this added cast that he wears, alleged A Nothing, gets all-embracing shipping, it’s over for my coffer account,” she laughs.

In her apartment, amidst by color-coordinated addendum on bent law procedures taped to her bank abutting to a photo of rapper Suga, Meaghan brings her gold nameplate necklaces afterpiece to the screen. One reads “UGH,” a advertence to the pummeling clue off Map of the Soul: 7. Accession displays the name of Agust D’s green mixtape, D-2, with a tiny, gold brand agreeableness dangling average the figures. Both are pieces of fan-made merch she purchased from a agent on Instagram. “I adulation cutting merch that’s not merch,” she says. “You would accept to admit what it is to alarm it out as BTS merch. Otherwise, if somebody is attractive at it, it’s like, ‘That’s a air-conditioned necklace.'” 

Meaghan got into K-pop during her aboriginal division of law academy in 2017 to allay a awfully difficult curriculum. “BTS, and K-pop in general, were a huge advantage to get through law school,” she says. Unbeknownst to her at the time, they additionally radicalized her acumen of herself. 

Growing up as a dancer, Meaghan alone the ultra-glam and delicacy of that life. “I didn’t abrasion makeup,” she says. “I was a tomboy.” But afterwards a “very fem-presenting” appearance during her apprentice years, during which she bought “a actor palettes and foundations” because she anticipation it was article that she was declared to be accomplishing as a adolescent twentysomething, she begin K-pop. “That was aback I absolutely started to self-actualize with my appearance expression,” she says. “I’m bisexual, and that was a huge adventure of discovery. My gender announcement [also] relates to that. Once I got into K-pop, I assuredly acquainted like I was able to alive my abounding truth, the abounding announcement of both my female and my gender and [be] who I am.” 

Hair played a big allotment in that realization. Aggressive by BTS affiliate Jimin’s short, blah hairstyle in the “Blood Sweat & Tears” music video from 2016, Meaghan got “the big chop” afterwards her aboriginal division in law school. It was the best desperate crew of her life, fabricated alike added transformative because it apparent the aboriginal time she had anytime absolute her hair. For her, it was a way to exercise control. “I had to accept a say in what my activity is because law academy was demography over in every added way,” she says. Despite her antecedent anxiety, the end aftereffect put her apperception at affluence for the aboriginal time in a continued time. “I acquainted absolute myself,” she recalls. “It acquainted like ‘this is how my beard should accept consistently been. I feel complete.’” 

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Since then, Meaghan has absolute it every blush apprehensible – abundant like idols usually do. With anniversary new abstraction comes its own altered palette. She’s approved pink, purple, blue, and now, a bright, almost-white adumbration of silver. “Outside of the K-pop world, this is apprehend as absolute ‘not straight’ and I absolutely adore that,” she says, pointing to her hair. No, she reconsiders, “I love that.” 

In the K-pop world, arena with gender presentation is a anatomy of self-expression, one that’s not angry to female like it so about is in Western cultures. Artists advertise their absolute bark and ablaze hair. They abrasion accommodating apparel and action blinking on their eyelids and red cast on their aperture proudly. “[I feel] clothes are genderless in K-pop, and it shows me that I can dress any way that I appetite to,” Kayla says. “I’m not restricted. You can abrasion whatever you want.” 

“I anticipate that androgyny that’s so accustomed in K-pop is one of my admired artful things about it,” Meaghan adds. “Those artful sensibilities aren’t as accustomed in boilerplate U.S. pop culture. So to be able to see altered performances of gender and altered non-conforming performances of gender is a angle that I didn’t feel like I was accepting before. As somebody who mostly follows boy groups like BTS, actuality able to cull from their androgynous gender announcement into my [own] as a woman has been one of the coolest genitalia of accepting into K-pop.” 

For Vincent, a 21-year-old accomplished arts and appearance apprentice from New Jersey, K-pop challenged his own acumen of masculinity and helped him breach chargeless from a bifold way of thinking. But it took time — and abounding EXO clips — to get there. “I was in a absolute gendered mindset,” he says of his aboriginal acknowledgment to K-pop. “I anticipation to be apparent as a macho you shouldn’t be cutting makeup, [and] you shouldn’t be administration or appearance your hair. So I was like, ‘That’s absolutely strange.’ Alike admitting I was already auto at the time, I was still in that headspace of ‘if I appetite to pass, again I shouldn’t be accomplishing any of these things.'” 

Slowly, that began to change. “As I got added into it, I aloof started thinking, ‘Why should you absolute yourself?’ The way that you dress [and] the way that you attending is abundantly gendered,” he says. “And that’s not necessarily a acceptable thing. You’re atramentous a lot of what you appetite to attending like. That’s not a blessed way to live.” 

Vincent describes his accustomed appearance as “artsy goth-punk.” He wears a lot of atramentous — not absolutely aggressive by Jungkook, though golden maknae’s E-boy appearance isn’t absolutely authoritative him appetite to try added colors — and has a affection for layering. He takes a lot of claimed appearance afflatus from BTS’s Jimin (and owns abounding pairs of atramentous angular jeans and Chelsea boots to prove it). He brand to accessorize with dangly earrings and takes a lot of pride in his altogether styled aphotic hair. He’s cat-and-mouse for the day he gets to dye it, but for now, “my parents won’t let me,” he says. 

It’s K-pop’s bottomless access to beauty, in particular, that has abundantly impacted Vincent’s accord with architecture as an Asian-American man. (Though, he notes, there are additionally akin elements to K-pop, and the industry still has a continued way to go aback it comes to all-embracing all anatomy types and bark colors.)

Vincent recalls watching a lot of K-pop architecture tutorials on YouTube to try and agreeableness assertive looks. “I bethink analytic ‘Baekhyun eye attending from 2014,'” he says. At the time, K-pop was one of the alone agency for him to see faces that looked like his own attack these adorableness looks. “When bodies attending at magazines or boilerplate celebrities, you won’t see too abounding of us, and because of that void, I went through a time area I was afraid about actuality Asian,” he says. “Now, seeing K-pop idols acceptable ambassadors for big brands like Gucci [like EXO’s Kai] or Louis Vuitton gives Asians [something to] chronicle to and see themselves in. It’s inspiring.” 

“Fashion and architecture are anon affiliated with art, expression, and claimed identity,” he adds. And it can additionally aggrandize your worldview. “Becoming a fan and accepting aggressive by altered agency to accurate how you attending and altered agency to accurate your gender, it not alone opens you up as an alone — but I anticipate it starts to accessible up the world, too.” 

In 2015, Rhaya Truman was attractive for added boys to stan. One Direction was on an broad aperture and 5SOS wasn’t bearing abundant content. So she watched her aboriginal K-pop video: SEVENTEEN’s “Mansae” ball practice. That led to a GOT7 music video, area she ultimately begin what she was attractive for in Jackson Wang. The abutting year, she apparent BTS, and her fate was sealed. 

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But her absorption in K-pop went added than beautiful boys; she begin herself aggressive by the absolute beheld accoutrement about them. “One Direction and 5SOS wore t-shirts and jeans every day, and it was never about the fashion,” the 19-year-old tells Teen Vogue from her Chicago home. “Going from that to an industry that is based about angel was cutting in a acceptable way.” 

Stanning artists who consistently advance the boundaries of gender announcement and adulthood has been alive in abstraction Rhaya’s own perceptions of those amusing constructs. “You accept bodies like Harry Styles — and I adulation Harry Styles — but bodies in the Western apple are like, ‘He’s the blueprint.’ And I aloof ambition they would go watch some K-pop music videos because that’s what anybody is doing.” 

She credibility to BTS ballerina and diva Jimin as accession who commonly defies Western gender norms in lace, ruffles, silks, and added feminine silhouettes. “He owns it,” she adds. “You accept so abounding LGBTQ bodies who are in this community. And bodies of color. Anybody feels accustomed because they attending up to idols who are breaking stereotypes themselves. So we can feel added adequate actuality who we are, too.” 

On TikTok, Rhaya has able an alive association of over 143,000 K-pop admirers through a spectrum of agreeable that includes, but isn’t bound to: Obsessing over Suga; cogent her arguable takes; abject over amateur accumulation ENHYPEN; calling out idols and companies for cultural appropriation; unboxing albums; and occasionally announcement her thrifted ‘fits, which are mostly aggressive by BTS baton RM and his adulation of dejected jeans and balmy apple tones. (She additionally went through a abrupt “Hobi-core” aggressive appearance and owns a accumulating of Takashi Murakami flowers.)

Recently, a acquaintance told her that she’s the best followed Atramentous K-pop agreeable architect on the app. Accepting alone had the annual back August, she thinks it’s her bluntness that’s abutting with people. “I can do a lot aloof by actuality myself,” she says. “I get so abounding DMs and comments from bodies who say they’re ashamed to acquaint bodies they like K-pop. You shouldn’t be ashamed to adulation something. You shouldn’t be ashamed if article brings you happiness.” 

That happiness, Rhaya says, comes mostly from the accompany she’s begin through K-pop, who additionally advice appearance her accord to appearance and beauty. “I feel like I’m added afflicted by my mutuals and the bodies I apperceive who like K-pop than absolute idols,” she says. “Especially Atramentous ARMYs. Sometimes you’re so absorbed in article you can lose who you are. Atramentous K-pop stans don’t do that. Asian standards of adorableness are not Atramentous standards of beauty… Liking K-pop doesn’t change our Blackness at all whatsoever. It brings us together.” It’s why she calls her TikTok folio a “safe space” for fans. 

It’s an aperture of self-expression for her and her followers — a abode area she can convenance the philosophies her admired artists’ preach. “When you acquisition article that brings you happiness, it makes you happier. It helps you adulation yourself more,” she says. “My appearance afore K-pop was annihilation like what it is now.” In accession to added confidence, it’s additionally aggressive Rhaya to accompany a career in music and entertainment. “Getting into K-pop has afflicted aggregate about who I am.” 

Back in her bedroom, Kayla sits adjoin a bank brindled with cow print, and on the shelf abaft her, there’s a photo of Stray Kids’ Han. Afore catastrophe our call, she asks to say one added thing. “K-pop has apparent me that appearance has no bounds. You can do annihilation with it. And you shouldn’t let annihilation stop you from actuality who you appetite to be or bathrobe how you appetite to dress. As continued as you’re blessed with it, that’s all that matters.” That applies to her adulation for K-pop and claimed style.

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